driver retaining screws

**Audio_by_Goodwill** · February 26th, 2009, 09:49 PM

I'm expecting a driver for one of the Butterfly cabinets I got awhile back to get delivered shortly. Today, I decided to buy some screws for installation. Altec used 1/4-20 threads, for 15" drivers. These Butterflys use 10-32, but the drivers are 12", not 15. What did Altec use for 12" drivers? I don't recall what my 1221A stage monitors used to hold the 417's in place, and I've since given the cabinets away, so I can't go look.

10-32, just seems small to me. Any thoughts?

I was going to buy Allen head screws, but they were a lot more expensive.... 65 vs. 12 cents. I didn't want to spend over $10 on a handful of screws!

**Audio_by_Goodwill** · February 27th, 2009, 06:28 PM

Nothin? No thoughts? No opinions?

**Old Guy** · February 27th, 2009, 06:35 PM

I've used both with no issues. I prefer stainless bolts, but here they don't cost much more.

YMMV.

**bfish** · February 27th, 2009, 08:35 PM

A 10-32 carbon steel machine screw has 1200 lbs tensile, so "the rest of the story" is what really matters.

**Audio_by_Goodwill** · February 27th, 2009, 09:42 PM

Originally Posted by bfish

A 10-32 carbon steel machine screw has 1200 lbs tensile, so "the rest of the story" is what really matters.

I guess what bothers me is the possibility of the driver being shifted before being tightened down since the screws are smaller than the holes in the driver, plus the heads are small..... even with washers.

Didn't get my driver, like I was hoping. Found a Beyma 12LX60 on ebay cheap.

GM · February 27th, 2009, 10:59 PM

Well, there's always collar bolts..........

GM

**Old Guy** · February 28th, 2009, 04:32 PM

Originally Posted by Audio_by_Goodwill

Found a Beyma 12LX60 on ebay cheap.

The Beyma is a very nice speaker, matching it later might be an issue.

Just as info- a friend who normally I respect claims to be using these as horn drivers, and that they work.

Parts Express:Lanzar MAX12 12" Subwoofer 4 Ohm

My first reaction is to recommend medication, but he says they work. I am trying to get over to hear them, but it's too damn cold here, especially with other issues going on.

The specs are pretty good for what Fitzmaurice claims works in a Tuba, but I wonder about car stereo stuff.

**Audio_by_Goodwill** · February 27th, 2009, 09:38 PM

Originally Posted by Old Guy

I've used both with no issues. I prefer stainless bolts, but here they don't cost much more.

I thought about stainless, but didn't want to pay extra for it if I was going to end up with Philips head screws. I didn't even look at the price of stainless Allen head.... the regular Allen head was high enough.